An Ode to the Road

Since I am lucky enough to have a personal driver most of the time and I just talked about Lauren's controversial car, I thought I would dedicate a blog to my experience as a passenger on the roads of Accra.

The roads themselves vary in quality, ranging from streets that compare to our state highways (with the occasionl stretch of dirt roads "under construction") to "hold on tight, we're goin offroading". Potholes are so prevelant because the tar on the road is very thin. A crew will occaisionally come and fill the potholes on a small stretch of a road but it's like a band-aid on a gushing wound.

Driving here is crazy. I could count the number of functioning traffic lights in Accra on 2 hands. There are no lanes and there is no concept of "right of way" (even for pedestrians). Bigger cars rule the road at all times and usually win at the game of chicken. I was in a van the other day that was side swiped by a sadan and both driver's couldn't be bothered...they just went on their way like nothing had happened. Cars weave throughout the entire width of the road to aviod pot holes and find the path of least resistance. If you want to turn, you have to beat the oncoming traffic and cut them off. If you let someone in to make a turn, everyone behind them will inch close to them to continue to block you so they can turn as well. Perhaps there is some organization to this chaos and I am too stuck in my American driver mindset to see it.

Rush hour lasts from 6:30-10:30am and from 3:30-9:00pm. I could safely guess that 20% of my day has been stuck in grid lock traffic. Random people decide that they are going to take it upon themselves to direct traffic (usually with a tree branch)
in hopes to earn a buck. Lauren warned me early on that if I make a to do list of 10 items, I should be content if 1 or 2 of them are accomplished. Ghanaians are on a different schedule, also refered to as Ghanaian time. Things take forever here and everyone is always late. If someone tells you they'll be there in 5 minutes, you'll see them in 2 hours. I'm not saying this is good or bad. It's just a different way of life.

One advantage to being stuck in traffic is that you can get all your shopping done! There are constantly people (refered to as Hawkers) in the middle of the roads and in between cars in traffic selling various items. Many of them harass you to buy
their stock and some just stroll by and stop if you hiss at them. Yes, you hiss to get their attention. The most common are bags of pure water, gum, phone credit, and plantain chips. You will also see the occasional framed artwork. Because everyone likes to buy giant framed art in traffic. Although I haven't seen it (thankfully), Lauren informs me that some Hawkers sell puppies in traffic.

Street signs in Accra are few and far between. Ghana's version of mapquest goes like this: pull over, "Please boss, can you direct me to XYZ?", he follows up with "go straight, then turn left at the lady selling coconuts, then turn right at the crooked tree, then drive a bit and turn left when you see boys playing football". What happens if they boys aren't out that day? Stop again and hiss down another passerby.

Tro Tros are the means of public transportation all throughout Ghana. They are privately owned vans that seat a driver, a mate, and about 18 passangers. Most of them are very beat up and have one corner of the door hanging on by a string
requiring the mate to pull some fancy manouver to close it. They have established routes and are very cheap to ride. I rode my first Tro Tro recently and I was impressed with how handy they are to get around.

Road terminology has given me some good laughs. If you get pulled over for driving to fast, it's not a speeding ticket, it's considered overspeeding. Passing is refered to as Overtaking. If you are caught drinking and driving, you will be
punished for "drink driving". Officials that direct traffic are Trafitacs. And my
personal fav: a turn signal is called a trafficator.

As the passenger, I get to watch the world pass me by. On a daily basis, I see goats, roosters, chickens, cows, and skinny little dogs walking on the roads. I see people carrying giant bowls or bags on their heads. I am so impressed at how much
weight and bulk they can carry and even run without it falling. I see multiple men, boys, AND girls urinating in the open gutters that runs along the side of the roads (the girls have amazing aim!). I see hundreds of shiping containers that have been turned into storefronts and painted to advertise 1 of 4 cell phone companies. Each of them have a name that religious in nature. Here are some of my favorites: Clap for Jesus, A chapter a day keeps the Devil away, God's time is the best Ent., and Finger of God. Lauren and I saw one Pepsi sponsered store front sign entidled "Pussy in Booth" for a provisions shop. Lauren inquired about this store name and learned the store had a cat.

As a driver, you inevitably interact with Ghana Police on a regular basis and Lauren has learned a few tricks to dealing with them. She has handled herself very well and adapted to getting around even though she has the worst sense of direction of anyone I know. That being said, I am looking forward to drving again in the US in my little Prius (haven't seen any hybrids here).